Sunday Business Post – Tomas Clancy
TO TRY: Tahbilk Marsanne, Victoria, Australia 2004, €12 from The Vintry, 102 Rathgar Road, Dublin 6; Mitchell and Son, CHQ, IFSC, Dublin 1; and O’Donovans off-licences throughout Cork (90)
Founded in 1860, Chateau Tahbilk was making exquisite, award winning wines during Queen Victoria’s reign. The Marsanne grapes, with old vines stretching back to 1927, are the highlight of the chateau’s production.
This is an almost ethereal wine, bursting with profound, honeysuckle notes, acacia, touches of lime marmalade and hints of petroleum – all circulating over fine, crisp acidity and a clean finish. Perfect with foie gras, tarte tatin or corn-fed breast of chicken.
TO BUY: Ortas, Rasteau Tradition, Cotes du Rhone Villages Rasteau 2007, €11 from O’Brien’s nationwide, Booze.ie and selected wine shops nationwide (88)
The concept of the Cotes du Rhone seem almost set up to confuse the casual purchaser. The Appellation Cotes du Rhone is essentially the regional appellation; however, certain better regions can add the phrase ‘Villages’ to get Cotes du Rhone Villages.
The best villages can add their name, as is the case with this wine. Beyond this, wine regions can graduate to their own AC region, such as AC Gigondas. Rasteau is on the legal climb towards AC status but, in quality terms, it arrived there long ago. A 70 per cent grenache, 20 per cent syrah, 10 per cent mourvedre blend of fine spice, with touches of tar and aniseed, this is an extraordinarily well priced wine that begs for charred courgettes, pungent goat’s cheese salads and spicy couscous dishes.
TO PUT BY: Vinaspre, Seleccion Limitada, DOC Rioja 2005, €23 from Wines Direct, Mullingar, Co Westmeath and www. winesdirect.ie (91)
Rioja has one of the most recognisable names in the wine world and sells in very solid quantities, yet despite this, wine critics seem drawn like bears to porridge and a soft bed to the easy charms of the neighbouring wine region, Ribera del Duero.
But Rioja is striking back with wines like this. It has hip, vanilla toastiness over a dense wash of smoky cedar, over-ripe plum and kir, with a lengthy, complex and grippy finish. The vines are all over 40 years of age and are subject to heavy selection. This vintage, which has a decade of ageing potential, is drinking well now for a remarkable price. Perfect with juicier meats such as roasted rack of lamb or stuffed pork fillet.
