Irish Times – John Wilson

WINES OF THE WEEK 

Pieropan Soave 2008, 12.5%, €17.99. 

Delicate floral nose with perfectly balanced, subtle green fruits, and plenty of refreshing acidity. This would go perfectly with plainly grilled white fish, such as haddock or sole. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Sweeney’s, Hart’s Corner; Cellar Master, Stillorgan Industrial Park; Red Island, Skerries; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Wine Boutique, Donnybrook Fair; and Eno Wines, IFSC and Monkstown.

Julius Riesling 2006 Eden Valley, 12.5%, €29.99. 

The 2006 is still an infant, but the excellent balance and length point to a bright future. Crisp, dry and very mineral, with a slight waxiness, and plenty of lime and lemon zest. Possibly a bit challenging on its own for some; try with crab or mussels. Stockists: Corkscrew, Chatham Street; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Thomas Woodberry, Middle Street, Galway.

Schloss Vollrads Riesling Kabinett 2005, Rheingau, 11.5%, €23.99. 

Bottled under Vino-lok. Light but intense honey toast and lemon in a glorious wine. There was hand-to-hand combat in the Wilson household over the last glass. A perfect, very posh, aperitif or a partner for fish. We had ours with baked haddock. Stockists: O’Briens

McWilliam’s Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, South-East Australia, 13.5%, €14.99.

Sealed with a cork, but none the worse for it. This is a very stylish red, and deserves wider distribution. Very pleasing medium-bodied cherry and cassis fruits, with a nice touch of acidity, and a rounded finish. The fruit has some real quality, and isn’t smothered in oak. A good partner for most red and white meats; I would try it with some lamb. Stockists: Texaco Service Station, Foxrock; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin; Next Door, Blessington; The Hole in the Wall, Glasnevin; The Drinks Store, Manor Street, Dublin; Serpentine Express, Ballsbridge, Dublin

Two Under €12 

Casa da Vila Verde, Vinho Verde 2008, Portugal, 11.5%, €11.99. 

Vinho Verde, from the far north of Portugal, is perfect summer wine: light, sometimes a little fizzy and refreshing, like a spritzer with attitude. This is a very attractive example, with zingy zesty lemon fruits and a crisp, dry finish. A good aperitif out in the sun, or with plain shellfish. Stockists: Matson’s, Cork; Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Susan and Alan’s Kitchen Pantry, Oranmore; The Alley, Cloyne, Co Cork; The Magic Carpet, Dublin 8; Pine Croft, Cork; Lilac Wines, Dublin 3.

Borgo Selene Catarrato-Inzolia 2008, Sicily, 11.5%, €9.99. 

The last of the summer wine? A very moreish light white wine made from two Sicilian grapes. Ripe, bouncy peach and pear fruits with plenty of lively citrus. Perfect everyday drinking before the meal or with salads. Stockists: Red Island Wines, Skerries; Shields’ Off-Licence, Drumcondra; Red Nose Wines, Clonmel; Eugene’s Kenmare; Martin’s, Fairview; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend.