Irish Times – Pat Carroll
WINES OF THE WEEK
This week’s bottles of the week illustrate six different label styles.
Traditional German
Max Ferdinand Richter Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007, 12%, €18.95-€19.95.
Traditional label, but nothing old-fashioned about the wine. Brauneberger means that it’s from the village of Brauneberg, Juffer is the name of vineyard, Riesling is the grape, Kabinett indicates the quality level and Trocken means “dry” – it’s all perfectly logical. The palate has apple and pear fruit with racy acidity and a layered, mineral finish. It’s light-bodied and ideal as an aperitif but robust enough to cope with seafood or chicken. Stockists: The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin; Liston’s, Camden Street, Dublin; Power Smullen, Lucan; Wicklow Wine Company.
Modern German
Lingenfelder Vineyard Creatures Hare Label Gewürztraminer 2005, 13.5%, €14.99.
Modern, eye-catching label. Aromatic, floral aromas of roses and lychees backed by a full-flavoured palate of spiced apples, pears and cloves. Perfect with mildly spiced Asian food. Stockists: Deveney’s, Dundrum; Donnybrook Fair; Holland’s, Bray; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Martin’s, Fairview; World Wide Wines, Waterford.
Consumer-friendly from France
Bergerac Sec Ch. des Eyssards 2007, 13.5%, €10.75.
Combines a classic French label with a back label in English describing the wine style and giving suggestions for food matches. Dry, medium-bodied, zesty, refreshing wine with apple and citrus notes. Its fresh acidity makes it an ideal aperitif, but it would also be very good with lighter fish or chicken dishes. Stockist: Wines Direct (www.winesdirect.ie).
Critters to the fore
MadFish Shiraz 2004, 14.5%, €17.99.
The Aboriginal water turtle design symbolises perseverance and tolerance. Not much perseverance needed to enjoy the fleshy dark cherry and bramble fruit with peppery spice. Tannins are ripe and there is a nice twist of liquorice/coffee on the finish.
Stockists: Anderson’s Food Hall, Glasnevin; Claudio’s, Newtownmountkennedy, Co Wicklow; Egan’s Food and Wine, Portlaoise; Fahy’s, Ballina, Co Mayo; Morton’s, Galway; O’Briens Off-Licences; Worldwide Wines, Waterford.
Reassuringly classic
Chianti Classico Badia a Coltibuono 2006, 13.5%, €20-22
Badia a Coltibuono’s thousand-year history of winemaking is reflected in the quintessentially traditional label – medieval castle, coat of arms. The wine is classic too. Made with Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes, there are ripe black cherries with a touch of mocha on the palate; it’s medium-bodied, with grainy tannins and excellent length. Terrific food wine for red meats or pasta with meat sauce.
Stockists: Donnybrook Fair; Drinkstore, Manor Street, Dublin 7; Gibney’s, Malahide; Morton’s, Ranelagh Galway; Wicklow Arms, Delgany, Co Wicklow; Wolfe’s, Capel Street, D1.
Storybook
Setanta Black Sanglain Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, 14.5%, €22.95.
The Black Sanglain was the faithful horse that pulled Setanta’s chariot. This is mature, elegant wine with cedar, mint and some leathery notes on the palate. It’s full-bodied, with supple tannins and delicious mocha and loganberry fruit.
Stockists: The Coach House, Ballinteer; Daly’s, Boyle; Gibney’s, Malahide; The Gourmet Bank, Churchtown; Holland’s, Bray; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; The Kitchen Foodhall, Portlaoise; Martin’s, Fairview; O’Neill’s, Carrickmacross; Silver Spoon, Castleknock; Sweeney’s, Glasnevin.
