Sunday Business Post – Tomas Clancy

TO TRY: Torres Vina Esmeralda, 2007 €11 from O’Brien’s Wines, Booze.ie and selected wine shops nationwide (87)

This exotic gewurztraminer and moscatel blend from the well-known Torres Winery is as adventurous and novel as any white wine blend on the market. Unfortunately, being famous, many of Torres’ experimental and risk-taking wines tend to be ignored. But just because you’re famous doesn’t mean that you haven’t got one more trick up your sleeve – so please, don’t be put off by the name.

This wine is spicy, full of gingerbread notes from the gewurztraminer, complemented by the oily lusciousness of the moscatel. The effect is silky and exotic, with a satin-like wash that is often described as akin to Turkish Delight. Ideal with Thai green curry and fish-based noodle dishes.

TO BUY: Vinas Elias Mora, DO Toro 2007 €15.05 from Wines Direct, Mullingar, Co Westmeath, and www.winesdirect.ie with nationwide delivery (88) 

Founded by two young women, Victoria Benavides and Victoria Pariente, nine years ago, Bodegas Elias Mora has become one of the leading lights of the new Spanish wine scene. These dynamic women have sought to develop a less rustic style than is the norm in the Toro region – and they have succeeded.

Though this wine is made from tinto do toro, the variant of tempranillo – planted in the same rough, stony soil that produces tannic monsters for their neighbours – the pair have produced a wine that is very bright and fresh. The emphasis is on lifted blackcurrant tones, with a sweeter, medium-bodied finish that would be ideal with rack of lamb, or other sweeter meat dishes such as honey-baked ham.

TO PUT BY Domaine Hubert Lamy, Le Prince´e, AC Saint-Aubin 2006 €18 while stocks last, Berry Brothers & Rudd, 4 Harry Street, Dublin 2, www.bbr.ie (90)

The Saint-Aubin wine-growing appellation sits just to the east of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, two of the most sought-after names in the wine world, and regions which produce wines that now regularly sell from €50 upwards.  Happily, this excellent wine has hints of baked apples, apricot, light buttery notes and nuttiness which draw people to Meursault wines, but at a fraction of the price.

The finish is medium-length and quite clean, with decent minerality. It is not as dense and weighty as Meursault, but at these prices, it’s a fair trade. With another two or three years it will become even weightier, but aged Saint-Aubin is becoming pricy, so buy now and store a couple of bottles. Ideal with pan-fried scallops, crab or lobster.